Gothic Lap Harp Information
History
Gothic harps appeared during the middle of the 14th century.
They remained popular throughout Europe into the early 17
th
century. Compared to earlier harps, the Gothic Harp was tall
while still small and light by modern standards.
They were strung with gut strings at a much lower tension than
we are accustomed to today. The bray pegs, along the center of
the soundboard, lightly touch the strings at their base. The
plucked strings buzzed against the pegs. This contact was
essential in exciting the upper harmonics of the notes; an admired
sound during the instruments heyday.
Originally, the soundbox was hollowed from a single plank of
hardwood, giving the harp a distinctive plucked sound that
complimented the lute. The gothic harp was played solo, or to
accompany vocals or in consort with vocals and the Lute. Earlier
models had 19 to 22 strings, later harps known as early
Renaissance harps were larger and had 26 to 30 strings.
Description
This EMS design is an historic reproduction. The Gothic harps
have a very graceful line, with a seemingly too thin arm. They
are not free standing. Each string runs from the tuning peg in the
arm, past a bray peg, to a hole in the center of the soundboard.
The string is held in place by the bray peg. There are small sound
holes in the soundboard. Since the strings are changed from the
front, there are no holes in the back of the harp. The number of
strings and the length of the harp can vary.
Tuning
The tuning varies according to the length of the instrument. In general the Gothic harp is
tuned lower than a similarly sized modern harp. The EMS designed 19 string Gothic
harp is tuned F below Middle to High C. The EMS designed 29 string Gothic harp is
tuned Low C to High C. The strings are color coded, all F’s are Blue and all C’s are Red.
Important note regarding construction.
Under the tension of tuning, the
shoulder of the arm will lean forward.
This will cause a slight gap between
the base of the shoulder and the
soundbox. This gap is natural and
should be expected. In anticipation of
this gap a solid brass stability rod is
installed in the shoulder during
manufacture. The stability rod passes
from the shoulder into the upper block
of the soundbox. This stability rod
transfers the tension of the strings to
the body of the harp. Therefore, the
slight gap that develops is not a
structural concern. It is best to leave
this gap open, do not use filler. If the
harp is de-tuned, such as during
shipping, the gap will close.
Care of your harp
As with any fine wood furniture, humidity is your biggest concern. Fluctuations in
temperature and humidity will cause the natural wood to swell and contract, altering the
amount of tension the strings place on the instrument. Keeping your harp in a stable
environment, out of direct drafts, or direct sunlight is best. To clean, use a soft dry cloth.
When a string breaks, the strings to either side are under greater tension and more likely
to fail. Therefore, always replace a broken string as soon as possible.
To replace the string, first remove the old string. Pull out the bray peg and remove the
broken string from the soundboard. Note the knot in the end of the string. Make sure
your replacement string, is the same gage and color as the broken string. Tie a knot in
one end; do not leave too much string hanging past the knot. Slip the knotted end into the
hole in the soundboard. Replace the bray peg. Look at the bray peg, there is one flat side
on the post. The flat side should face up. Then take the free end of the string and slip it
through the hole in the tuning pin. Pull it through all the way but do not pull it tight.
Then start to turn the tuning pin. You can cut the string so there is just a half inch of free
string, tuck that end under as you tune. Remember this is a new string and will need slow
tuning to stretch in.
